To wrap up this three part recommendation of yummy wines you probably haven’t tried but definitely should, I take a leap from the old world to the new: Chile. Though there are noticeable stylistic differences when that leap is made (often higher alcohol and more extracted fruit flavors), the similarities are that this is again a value wine of consistently high quality that has unique characteristics and can enhance, and be enhanced by, the right food.
To say “Chilean Carmenère” is really to be redundant. Wine from the Carmenère grape is produced virtually nowhere else in the world other than Chile, at the moment (though California will soon be adding it to its list of varieties). Known as the “lost grape of Bordeaux,” Carmenère originated in France as one of the blending grapes of Bordeaux. But the cooler, wetter French climate was difficult for this heat-loving, late-ripening variety, and it was basically phased out of production there at the end of the 19th century when Europe was smitten by phylloxera.
Lucky for us, though, a few exiled Carmenère vines found refuge in the hot, arid valleys of Chile and took root there, mistaken for decades as a Merlot clone. When it was discovered, just over 15 years ago in 1994, to be the lost variety Carmenère, the Chileans undertook a project of studying them, selecting the best of them, and culivating Carmenère to its strengths… and for that we owe them our sincere thanks.
Carmenère has enticing qualities similar to Cabernet Sauvingnon (with which it is often blended), but with deeper color, smoother tannins, lively acidity and unique characteristic aromas and flavors of tobacco, licorice, and spice.
Great examples of Carmenère can be found from many producers in the $10-$15 range, with the most widely distributed coming from Santa Rita, Santa Alicia, and Concha Y Toro. Montes makes a Cab-Carm blend in this range, and a higher-end Carmenère only.
Even when the Chileans make this in a fruit-forward, New World style, its less fruity varietal characteristics are still prominent and keep it balanced, making this a great food wine. Unsurprisingly delicious with South American dishes, its also great with Mexican, steaks and roasts, duck and goose, fajitas de carne, hearty stews, and definitely with burgers, pizza, and barbeque.
Read Part 1/3: Cahors
Read Part 2/3: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
